Spare Spoons Kitchen
Marcella Hazan's classic ragù — the celebrated Bologna meat sauce, cooked in milk before wine and tomatoes and simmered for hours into something mellow and deeply sweet. A weekend project that rewards every minute.
Use well-marbled beef — chuck (the neck portion is ideal). Lean meat makes a harsher sauce; the fat is what makes ragù sweet.
Milk first. Simmering the beef in milk before the wine and tomatoes protects it from the acid and keeps it tender; a little nutmeg goes in with it.
The merest simmer, uncovered, 3+ hours. Add a splash of water if it sticks; at the end the fat should separate and no water remain. It only gets better the longer it goes.
In Bologna it's tossed with tagliatelle (never spaghetti), or layered into green lasagne. A tablespoon of pork (1 part ground pork to 2 parts beef) makes it richer still.
Provenance: adapted from Marcella Hazan's ragù bolognese in Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking — with gratitude to the cook who taught a generation how Italians really cook.
Make the tagliatelle: roll a batch of homemade pasta and cut it into wide ribbons — fresh tagliatelle is the classic partner for this ragù.
Gluten-free: the ragù itself has no flour — serve it over gluten-free pasta or soft polenta.